Slowing down on the MotoGP 22 game can be tricky, especially for newcomers. But don’t worry, here’s a guide to two-wheel braking best practices.
Going fast isn’t just a case of opening the throttle as soon as possible, slowing down properly is also the key to a fast lap time – weird as that sounds.
Braking in the The MotoGP 22 video game is very different from previous games. People have struggled with the braking of the MotoGP 21 so much that I wrote an article on this same site with some braking tips. Now I’m back to give braking tips for the latest iteration.
I’ve already received many comments and messages asking how to brake the new game, so sit back, slow down and get to that climax.
What changed ?
As mentioned earlier, braking on MotoGP 22 looks different than the last two official MotoGP matches.
It will take practice to pick up the skill, keep that in mind.
Of course, if you’re new to the series, I strongly suggest you tackle the tutorials first. Automatic braking is available, but it’s not great, as it slows down too soon and you’ll struggle to pass with it on.
Assisted modulation of the front brakes and brake entry helps by adjusting your brake pressure so you don’t get too aggressive or go into a stoppie and is also worth a test run.
A lack of common brakes
Joint brakes have been removed in MotoGP 22 for an unknown reason – previously you could just mash one of the controller triggers and the front and rear brakes would be applied, but no more.
If you are used to using them, you will have to adapt to the independent application of the front and rear brakes.
On a PlayStation controller, the front brake is with L2 and the rear brake is Cross. On an Xbox controller, it’s LT and A.
Sidenote, this guide is for PC, PlayStation, and Xbox drivers, not Nintendo Switch digital inputs.
On your marks!
After going through the tutorial, the next thing you need to do is learn your brake markers, these are visual indicators around each track that you can use as a reference to know where you should start braking.
Most tracks have brake markers represented by white horizontal lines along the curbs, but in some corners you will find that they are missing. In this scenario, you must use other visual reference points.
Take the new Mandalika Circuit, for example, where Turn 10 is a tight right-hander, requiring heavy braking at high speeds, but there are no brake markers. There are some streetlights on the left side of the track though, use them as a brake marker.
Moto3, Moto2 and MotoGP all feel different compared to previous years, with braking, so I’m going to cover all three categories.
Moto3 Braking Tips
Moto3 bikes are almost as hard to stop as MotoGP bikes in the MotoGP 22 game, not because of how fast you’re going, but because of how far you have to push to get good lap times.
Keeping your cornering speed high is key, as is late braking. You will find that in areas of hard braking, the rear wheel will lift into the air, otherwise known as a stoppie.
It wasn’t a problem for Moto3 bikes in MotoGP 21, but beware, it can happen in the current title.
The rear brake is also powerful enough for Moto3 bikes, meaning if you’re not careful the rear end will lock up and flip on you causing you to crash. Embarrassing.
Also keep in mind that using a significant amount of engine brake can cause you to lose control when braking, so I would suggest setting the engine brake to three or less via the on-screen options using of the D-pad.
Avoid a Moto3 stoppie
The best way to stop one of these bikes is to be gentle with your front brake, as going straight to full brake pressure will cause a stoppie and then you won’t be able to turn around the corner.
You won’t need full brake pressure for every corner, of course, but for a hairpin, for example, you want to get maximum brake pressure quickly without just slamming it on straight away. It’s also a good idea to pull back on the left analog stick to shift your rider’s weight rearward, helping to keep the rear of the bike grounded.
If you’re using manual gears, you’ll want to start downshifting while braking, but again, don’t do it too quickly or the rear end will lose traction and backfire on you. Once you’re in the right gear and have slowed down enough, it’s time to release the brake pressure and start rocking into the corner.
Step on the rear brake in an emergency
At this point, if you apply full brake pressure, you won’t be able to tip over very easily, causing you to run wide and miss the apex. You can of course brake when cornering, as long as you don’t use the front brake too much.
If you find yourself in a corner that’s a bit too hot you can use the rear brake to help you slow down, but just press the appropriate button instead of holding it down, otherwise the rear will lose traction and you you will probably overwrite . Again.
Put all of these methods together and you’ll be tackling corners with ease!
Moto2 Braking Tips
Strangely, I find the braking in Moto2 to be easier than in the other two classes – everything feels smoother.
The rear brake is much more useful and you can get away with being a little more aggressive. For engine brake adjustment, you can go up to four without too much trouble.
Moto3 braking techniques still apply here, however, only this time you will need to adjust your braking markers by braking earlier than on a 250cc machine.
Adjust your Moto2 rider’s posture
For tougher braking zones, you still have to pull back on the left analog stick to minimize stops, but you can downshift faster than on a Moto3 bike without worrying too much about the rear end falling on you.
So, apply the front brake, pull the left analog stick, apply the rear brake if necessary, downshift to the required cog, release the front brake and release the rear brake, then swing into the corner. Simple, right?
Again, trying to flip through a corner with maximum brake pressure will get you in trouble, use the rear brake to close the line if you are a bit wide.
Braking advice in the MotoGP category
This is the class that a lot of people have trouble braking with. MotoGP motorcycles are much more powerful than Moto3 and Moto2 vehicles, which means they are harder to stop.
Again, adjustments to your brake markers will be required as you will slow down earlier than Moto2 and Moto3 due to the extra speed.
Brake disc selection
You will also need to select the correct brake rotors for each track pre-event. Using the wrong brake rotor means they will either overheat or be too cold, both of which will cause you to have trouble stopping the bike in corners.
If you are unsure of which brake rotors to use, look for the white light bulb icon in the brake rotor selection screen, as this suggests the optimum configuration.
Avoid a MotoGP-class stoppie
Stops are still possible when pushing, but they aren’t as exaggerated or as frequent as in the MotoGP 21 game, thankfully.
If you find yourself in a stoppie, the best way to lower the rear of the bike is to release pressure from the front brakes by about half. Of course, you’ll still run wide—and depending on how quickly you get the rear end back on the trail, you may even go completely off the trail—but the key is not to panic when you’re in a stoppie. If you overcorrect in a hurry, you’re more than likely to go all the way.
It’s worth remembering that when you’re in mid-stop, you won’t be able to turn into the turn, so focus on getting the rear wheel to the ground first.
Recording from a tank slapper
A new braking problem you may find yourself in on the MotoGP 22 is a “tank slapper”. This can happen if you are too aggressive turning into the corner and applying too much front brake. The front will lock momentarily and you will find yourself in a violent wobble.
It surprised me several times when the game was first released, but don’t worry, you can get over it. Just like in a stoppie, you can get out of a tank slapper by releasing the front brake as much as you can. Additionally, you’ll need to try to stay as upright as possible while countersteering – moving the left analog stick in the opposite direction of the tank firing pin. Eventually the bike will calm down and you can continue.
As soft as silk
Using the techniques you learned in Moto3 and Moto2 will help you in the MotoGP class – being smooth is key. In the event of heavy braking, try to keep the bike as straight as possible, as this will help you slow down and maintain control.
Apply the front brake quickly but smoothly, add a little rear brake if desired, shift the rider’s weight rearward with the left analog stick and downshift the gears until you reach the required one. You can quickly downgrade in MotoGP without consequence.
When you’re in the right gear and have slowed down enough, start releasing the brakes so you can swing into the turn, brake until you reach the apex, then release the brake completely.
It is practice makes perfect
As obvious as it may seem, practice will really help a lot, the more laps you do the better you will understand how and when to brake, and then it will become second nature.
I’m always asked how I know where to brake on all the trails and it all comes down to how much practice I’ve had over the years.
The in-game MotoGP Academy will also help you increase your pace, so don’t throw this mode away.
Your controller provides feedback, so if it vibrates when you brake, it tells you you’re about to crash! Don’t ignore it either.
Remember, we all have to start somewhere and some people will pick it up quicker than others, but don’t get discouraged, keep going and you’ll be nailing those peaks in no time.